Bakuchiol vs. retinol: the plant-based pick, explained

If retinol has ever left your skin flaky or tight, you’ve probably heard the word bakuchiol. It’s often called a plant-based retinol alternative. Here’s where that idea comes from, and how to use it well.

What bakuchiol is

Bakuchiol comes from the seeds of the babchi plant, Psoralea corylifolia. On an ingredient list, it simply appears as Bakuchiol.

Here’s the fun twist: it isn’t a retinoid. Its structure looks nothing like retinol, yet early research found it acts on skin in some similar ways.

Why people compare it to retinol

A 2019 study in the British Journal of Dermatology put the two side by side. Forty-four people used either 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice a day or 0.5% retinol cream once a day for 12 weeks.

Both groups saw a similar improvement in the look of wrinkles and dark spots. The retinol group reported more flaking and stinging, which is why bakuchiol gets called the gentler option.

It was one small study, so keep your expectations realistic. Still, it’s a big reason bakuchiol earned a spot in our edit.

Bakuchiol or retinol?

You don’t have to pick a team, either. Some people start with bakuchiol, then decide later whether they want to try retinol.

Who might like it

Bakuchiol is a nice fit if you want smoother-looking skin without the adjustment period some people feel with retinol. It also suits anyone building a simple, steady routine.

New to it? Patch test on your jawline first. Any ingredient, plant-based or not, can bother some skin.

In our edit, bakuchiol shows up in toners, ampoule pads, ampoules, creams, a massage cleanser, and an eye cream. That makes it easy to start with just one step.

How to use it

Using retinol too? Keep things simple and check each label for timing. In the morning, finish with sunscreen, as you would with any routine.

Give it time, too. Use it every day for several weeks before you decide how it works for you.

Expect a gradual change, not an overnight one. Look for skin that feels smoother and looks a little more even as the weeks go by. It’s also an easy way to ease into an anti-aging routine without overhauling everything you love.

Why we’re into it

Our favorite way to use it is the evening ampoule pad. Picture a soft, semi-gel pad soaked in ampoule, swept across your face before bed. A rich cream on top, and you’re done.

You’ll often see bakuchiol next to exosomes in Melody Time and Grasen formulas, and Melody Time adds Squalane too. Browse every pick on our Bakuchiol page, read our exosome guide, or visit a Glowoori store near you.

Sources

• Dhaliwal S. et al., “Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing,” British Journal of Dermatology (2019), via PubMed
• Cosmetics & Toiletries, “Inside Ingredients: Bakuchiol”